Stripping an SS1


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Stripping an SS1


SS1 Stripdown


1. Rear panel


Firstly, open the boot.  Remove the two torx screws at the corners where the panel meets the rear wing.  Now underneath the panel, remove the row of torx screws underneath.  It may well help to clean the heads out with a small screwdriver or similar.  Now remove the number plate and remove the four screws hidden behind it.  The only thing which stops the panel coming away now is the wiring to the rear lights.  Pull the panel rearwards, supporting its weight (it isn't heavy).  Let it down gently noting the two 5 way connectors for the light clusters, the bullet type connectors for the number plate light and the two earth studs on the lamp clusters.  Release the connectors and undo the two 10mm earthing bolts.


2. Boot


Support the weight with your shoulders and undo the stay bolts first, then the four bolts on the hinges, noting their position (scribe round them, paint their outline, anything).  Lift away.  Remove the two torx screws on the left hand side and the one on the right, the screws right in front of you, and the two holding the bootlight on.  Now comes a tricky bit.  Pull the forward edge of the boot towards you and release the two bullet connectors to the boot light.  Pull the light clear into the boot, and carefully pull the bootliner upwards.  Make sure it comes up dead square as it's a tight fit and otherwise will get stuck.


3. Rear Deck


If you've not yet removed your roof (hard or soft top) then do so now.  Next remove the two torx screws at the top of the B post (by the seatbelt mount - one either side) and the row of screws on the rear of the panel (previously obscured by the boot).  The row of pop rivets which hold the roof securing points may be rivetted to the body tub as well as the rear deck.  In which case, drill them out. Remove the petrol filler cap and the aerial and lift off.  Itwill be tight over the petrol filler cap - it's a big grommet. Replace the petrol filler cap to prevent dirt ingress.


4. Rear wings


Remove the row of screws up the door post and those on the top edge of the wing.  Undo the two screws which hold the door striker to the wing.  Now raise the rear corner of the car and remove the wheel.  Don't forget to take off the screw and nut in the corne rof the boot which secures it to the inner wing.  Lift the wing away.  The same procedure applies to both sides, although the offside (drivers) wing can be removed without removing the rear deck and therefore not having to disturb the aerial.  All the screws need to be removed along with the petrol filler cap,however.



5. Doors


Unless your hinges have been previously ripped out of the door and glassed in (as in one on mine), it's slightly easier to remove the door trim panels, removing window winders and mirror remote controls as applicable.  Again, as applicable, disconnect the wiring for the windows/mirrors inside the door (a 4-way plug and socket for the mirrors and two bullet connectors for the window). Prise out the wiring grommet so that the wires will pass easily through the hole in the door.  Support the door with a convenient foot, jack, friend or member of the family.  Through the two inspection holes mark their positions and undo the 3 nuts top and bottom and remove the washers before they fall into the bottom of the door!  Hold the door by the two top inspection holes and pullaway from the hinge.  Identical for both sides.

If, however, you find a glassed in hinge or two, then you can remove the door with the hinges attached.  The bottom nuts are accessible via the trim panels on the outer edge of the footwell. Two screws on the visible edge and one hidden in the depths of the footwell about half way up.  Remove the door seal where it holds it in.  A pull and a wiggle and out they come.  The top ones are just about accessible if you remove the speakers first and use some convenient length socket extensions.


6. Headlamp panel and Front nosecone


Firstly, undo the two Philips screws with their 8mm nuts which hold the bottom of the wing to the bottom of the nosecone.  With the bonnet open (remove it if you like, but its heavy and not strictly necessary), remove the row of torx screws along the back edge of the headlamp panel.  Unscrew the rubber stop and remove the bonnet stay retaining clip (mine was rivetted in which case drill the rivet out carefully).   Removal of the spotlamps comes next, but as no-one seems to have the original lamps, it depends upon the car.  Next, there are five plastic wing nuts which hide up inside the nosecone securing its top edge to the headlamp panel.  On your back, stick your hand up there are you'll eventually find them.  One in the centre, one at either end, and the other two equally spaced about a quarter of the way in from the edge.  If, like mine, some have been replaced with 10mm nuts, then the use of a universal joint and lots of socket extensions is required.  The headlamp panel can now be lifted away.  As you lift it clear, make sure the nosecone doesn't slip off onto the floor.  There are a couple of wires to disconnect first.  The connections for the sidelights/indicators can be pulled out of the back of the unit after peeling back the rubber seal. 



7. Front Wings


From around the door post area, remove the row of screws down the trailing edge of the wing.  Onto the top edge of the wing, now. Unscrew the rubber stops.  If the rubber just turns, pull the top off it and use a pair of pliers.  Next, the row of screws along the top.  The next step depends upon the extent of your stripdown. If it's a total strip, then remove the fusebox, washer bag and the screw hidden on the chassis underneath the inlet manifold not too far from the brake pipe unions (offside).  On the nearside, it's halfway between the alternator and starter motor on the chassis rail.  Also remove the jack, its handle and the expansion water bottle.  Now remove the wing complete with inner.  If, like me, you need to be able to move the car under its own power (i.e. onto a trailer) then drill out the rivets holding the inner wing to the outer (just under the wheelarch) and remove the wing.

In both cases, the nearside wing will come off with the airducting for the blower motor.


8. Seats and interior


The seats are secured by four cap head set screws each.  Move the seat fully forwards and undo the back two screws with a 6mm allen key or suitable socket adaptor.  Slide the seat backwards are do the same to the front pair.  The seat will not be totally free yet, however, but can be moved to one side once the seatbelt warning light wires have been disconnected (bullet connectors beneath the seat.  My personal choice was to leave the seatbelt connected to the seat and undid the top mounting plate (3 x 13mm bolts) which releases the top mounting.  The bottom one requires removed of a torx screw, a cross headed screw and the drilling out of a pop rivet holding the hood cover retaining stud.  This removes the plastic panel.  Behind it is the Inertia reel mechanism.  Remove the two 13mm bolts and the 11/16 bolt holding the reel to the chassis plate (had you wondered what those two nut and threads on the outside were for?) and remove.  Put that seat somewhere safe and do the same with the other.

The glovebox comes off with just two screws inside (and window/mirror wiring where applicable).  The centre console is the same with the line of screws running up both sides of the unit, flick the covers off the screw heads, remove these and disconnect all cables (noting where they all go, naturally).  Another two screws and the two side panels come off as well.  The carpet should now be held in by the securing screw for the drivers footwell air vent and the gearlever gaiter.  Unscrew the gearlever knob, remove the screw and both bits of the carpet can be removed


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This site was last updated 01/29/07

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